AIFW BLOG

Dress of the day @ CENTRE NEUF

By claesenpool - Because of magor constructionwork at warehouse Maison de Bonneterie, the dress of the day had to find a new location in Amsterdam. The initiative of the dutch newspaper de parool found a save home in CENTRE NEUF located in the Utrechtsestraat. An unique shoppinglocation were you can see the various creations of the designers from closeby. The jurk van de dag as it's called in dutch, can be seen in the CENTRE NEUF shoppingwindow up till halfway next week.Go and take a visit, don't forget to pick up your free issue of the AIFW paper en de parool.

Your reporters - claesenpool

Supertrash

By claesenpool - Supertrash showed their Spring/summer 10 collection in a packed catwalk venue. Right from the beginning of the show the mirror logo ensured a glitter and glamour evening. No one less then Janice Dickinson entered the room with her entourage to watch the show from frontrow. The mood was set, the show could start. Runner-up from the first cycle of Hollands next topmodel, Sulvia Geersen opened the show. Supertrash showed a super-femine, super-sexy, elegant, wearable collection. Guests next to us in the row were already picking out total sets for themselfs. Halfway the show a saxofonist entered the catwalk to give the show and the music an unexpected twist.In the end, owner of supertrash Olcay Gulsen took her overwelwing aplause as she entered the catwalk. Super models, super music, super entourage. Supertrash truely gave a super show.

Janice Dickinson

Sylvia Geersen

 

Olcay Gulsen

Your reporters, claesenpool

 

 

The Undaunted And Beyond

Jolanda van den Broek and Brigitte Hendrix both graduated from the Gerrit Rietveld academy in 2005. Since that moment, they have stunned audiences with their remarkably graphical print design and silhouettes for their brand And Beyond.

Their newest collection The Undaunted was no different. Inspired by French Revolutionary, Marianne and the symbolism of the flag, the collection is an illusion of fire, flames and exceptional imagery.

Not to be interpreted as just a ‘clothing brand’, And Beyond has collaborated with photographers and visual artists Barrie Hullegie and Sabrina Banglovanni since the launch of their brand. An astonishing installation of triptychs with dramatic imagery, video’s suggesting burning flags and mannequins with their feet buried in charcoal were the result of this collaboration.

Jolanda: “We showed our work at Arnhem Mode Biennale and to avoid repeating ourselves opted for such a presentation. The abstract images created by Barrie and Sabrina are a real addition to our collection, and although we share a similar vision, are completely independent works of art.”

Sabrina: “Times are difficult for image-makers, there is such an aspect of ‘perishability’ that goes hand-in-hand with dullness. To present our work in such a manner allows onlookers the time to draw their own conclusions and let the images sink-in; I believe this is also of great value to And Beyond’s designs."

The Undaunted will be presented at Pop-Up Café Meneer de Wit until this Sunday, don’t miss it!

pic: Jolanda, Brigitte, Barrie & Sabrina

WRITTEN BY HOLLY SYRETT
PHOTOGRAPHY VINCENT KOS

Gilmenta Jeansa (Frozen Jeans) by Denim Demon

The ‘lost’ Sami people of Northern Scandinavia are not the first that I would associate with a trendy denim brand. However, having spent just a few minutes in Dutch denim boutique Tenue de Nimes, - who are exhibiting Denim Demon’s  new collection - ‘trendy denim brand’ turned out to be an assumption I had made too early...

And my previous unawareness of the Sami people (approx. 70.000 people who inhabit the Northern parts of Sweden, Norway, Finland and Russia and who belong to the last indigenous ethnic groups of Europe) might just have to be put to my own ignorance.

Denim Demon is a friends and family run business, that has delved into its own heritage on the search of new jean washes, and that has came out with an inspiring and moving story.

Launched in 2008 by brothers Oskar and Anton Olssen, Denim Demon is taking over the world in a fast pace and is now retailed in Sweden, Norway, Finland, Holland, Germany, Belgium, Russia, The UK, USA and Japan. Not that this is noticeable when talking to Anton Olssen, who is a laidback guy, passionate about his story and obviously passionate about his friends.

Anton (pic top): “We want to having something that we can tell with our jeans, the collection ‘Gilmenta Jeansa’ (frozen jeans) has resulted in real stories from real people, stories that can be experienced by the wearers.”

Photographer Sebastian Skarp (also friend of the Denim Demon brothers) spent time with 7 Sami people who were each given a pair of DD jeans with the strict instructions to wear them day-in, day-out for six months. The result: a beautiful photography exhibition, which portrays a lifestyle so far from our own that it’s no surprise that Father Christmas comes from Lapland, and for the Denim Demon brothers, a series of jeans with a real story.

Visit Tenue de Nimes on Elandsgracht 60 or Modefabriek to see, hear and feel the stories of the 7 Sami men who wore Denim Demon jeans for six months.

WRITTEN BY HOLLY SYRETT
PHOTOGRAPHY VINCENT KOS

Madé

Brazilian born and Dutch raised Miriam Flores successfully launched her brand Madé in 2005, yet has always cherished the idea of showing at AIFW.

To be able to celebrate her first (stunning) show on the same day as her birthday was an added bonus. Congratulations Miriam!

Miriam’s heritage is recognisable in her collection that resembles the laidback attitude of Ipanema, where Miriam yearly spends time chilling out.

Miriam: “This is my first show at AIFW, I had to make a selection out of my original collection that consists out of 120 garments, and have chosen for the garments that are most representative of myself, with this show I want to really introduce Madé to the Dutch public, this is me, this is who I am!”

If beautiful, elegant, comfortable, ‘warm’ and wearable are words Miriam would like to identify herself with, then I think she’s got it right.

Madé’s colourful collection of swimwear, jumpsuits, dresses and accessories can gladly samba themselves into my wardrobe any day.

(pic: Miriam Flores)

WRITTEN BY HOLLY SYRETT
PHOTOGRAPHY VINCENT KOS

Frans Molenaar Award 2009

(pic top: model from Frans Molenaar Award nominee Jimmy Paul's collection)

The Frans Molenaar Award is an award for the most promising couturier in The Netherlands. Presented by prestigious Dutch designer Frans Molenaar himself, the award comes with more than the honour of receiving it, it also represents a 10.000-euro cheque to facilitate the road between education and profession.

Last year’s winner Danny Cremers took his 10.000 euro’s to London and is now successfully fulfilling his second year at Central Saint Martins college. He opened the show with his most recent collection that confirmed his earlier triumph and was well received by the crowd.

This year’s winner 34-year-old Hyun Yeu cannot only be congratulated on being the most promising couturier in The Netherlands, he is also presenting his first men’s collection ‘I still have butterflies’ this Sunday at AIFW.

Talk about talent!

His women’s couture collection ‘Double vision and illusions’ (see pic below) was inspired by a story that he wrote himself.

Hyun: “It’s a story about a girl who thinks she is a plant, it turns out that she is suffering from schizophrenia. Her story is shown in the collection through the mirrored designs, strong colours that illustrate her mood swings and transparent materials.”

 

WRITTEN BY HOLLY SYRETT
PHOTOGRAPHY VINCENT KOS

Malousebastiaan

Malou Verharen and Ferdinand (Sebastiaan) Hartgers graduated at the Art Academy in Utrecht this year with their collection – Hand Dyed and Hand Made –, which was inspired by the endless atmosphere and borderless sky views.

Ferdinand: “Round shapes with no beginning or end and natural materials, visualize the infinity of our inspiration.”

Elegant silks in airy shades of blue and sky-coloured pinks stand in contrast to naturally brown, hard outer-garments, which were made from burned deer and goatskin.

Already the third collection that the designers have created, Hand Dyed and Hand Made continues the pair’s vision in various formats.

Their multilingual website is a literal interpretation of their borderless aspirations. Less noticeable but possibly more significant is the persuasion of their concept into their patternmaking; many designs consist of just one pattern and reflect the hard outer shells with which they are modelled.

Malousebastiaan are in the process of sampling their collection and are represented by Gan-Baroo PR.

WRITTEN BY HOLLY SYRETT
PHOTOGRAPHY VINCENT KOS

Blue Blood

By claesenpool - Blue Blood showed their two collections B.B and AVELON. For the first shown collection we could see a very clear travelling theme, some shirts had cable prints which gave the collection a navy feel. Colour use consisted of different shades of indigo blue, reds, greys, dark blue and black. The models wore summer sjawls and suitcases as accessoiries. A very wearable collection with a typical Blue Blood touch.

For the second part of the show we got to see the designer label of Blue Blood called AVELON. A much more outspoken collection then the first one. More daring, more nude and more sexy. The very artisan collection showed free forms and asymmetrical garments. See-through fabrics were combined with feathers and gold sequens. Eyecatchers of the show were the black hole prints. AVELON was very surprising and lifted the show to another level.

B.B

AVELON

Your reporters - claesenpool

Grand Seigneur

The Grand Seigneur is the highest honour within Dutch fashion. This evening it was awarded to the most distinguished designers that the country has ever cultivated.

On receiving the award, the gentleman in question, were gracious and even caused the selected group of onlookers to giggle during their pleasant and personal anecdote. Whereas their first associations with ‘Grand Seigneur’ were of cigars and aristocrats (nothing comparable to their fashion house), the designers gladly acknowledged the recognition from their native country.

Internationally celebrated for their artistic and commercial work, both politically charged and a statement of and within fashion, Viktor & Rolf have - and will continue to -  truly expand the possibilities of Dutch fashion.

WRITTEN BY HOLLY SYRETT
PHOTOGRAPHY AHMET POLAT

Lichting 2009

Lichting 2009 is one of AIFW’s most anticipated runways, wherein the 14 most promising students from 7 Dutch fashion academies showcase their 5 strongest graduation pieces.

This year’s impressive judging panel consisted of Professor Wendy Dagworthy (founder of London Fashion Week), illustrator, writer and photographer Garance Doré, fashion blogger Susanna Lau and the extremely talented Lucas Ossendrijver who is the men’s designer for Lanvin.

Whereas all judges found the decision between such talented students difficult to make, only one could be the winner of a 10.000-euro cheque and the opportunity to present their collection at New York Fashion Week (made possible by Gstar).

Ann Boogaerts from ArtEZ is that person.

Her collection ‘Fabiola’ was inspired by the Belgian queen Fabiola and revealed structured and angular designs in primary colours, derived from both the Belgian and Dutch flag. Already accepted at the Institute Francais de la Mode, Ann aims to invest some of her winnings into the French economy.

Ann: “I am not ready to start for myself yet, I want to learn more, speak to more people and gain a lot more experience before that time”.

 

Above: Lichting 2009 nominee Ireneo Ciammella with one of his models

WRITTEN BY HOLLY SYRETT
PHOTOGRAPHY AHMET POLAT