AIFW BLOG

A fresh start..

Letting go is always hard. But sometimes you just need a fresh start. That's the reason for starting a new blog. In January 2010 that will be the place for all the juicy information about the Amsterdam International Fashion Week. Here is my future: http://aifw-insider.blogspot.com/

A Tribute to Orange Babies - A Tribute to Life!

The last show of this evening and of this week. A tribute to Orange Babies by House of Orange. What to expect of this tribute? I could feel that all the other spectators – the room was pretty packed – asked themselves the same question. First, some essential background information about Orange Babies. This foundations’ primary goal is to help pregnant  women  with HIV and their babies in Africa. Orange Babies want to make the people around the world, the Netherlands included, aware of the problems of HIV/Aids in Africa. Therefore, creative events are organized, like this amazing Tribute!

Wende opened the show; with a touching song called break my heart. Only accompanied by her guitar and her amazing voice, she could made us all feel what she sang. Then there was a speech held by Baba Sylla, the director of Orange Babies. When he reached the microphone the audience cheered: We love u! A great moment, after which Sylla spoke some beautiful words. Ten years ago Orange Babies held a show and for him it was impossible to mention all the great things the foundation – and the benefactorers – had accomplished since. Then the audience had to suit the action to the word; many collection-boxes appeared! Off course, everyone donated for this great initiative.

There happened a lot on the catwalk. A child’s choir, Kinderkoor de Kickers (dirigent: Jan Maarten Koeman), sang two beautiful songs. A number of stylists gave their interpretation on Africa and for Orange Babies. Firstly, eight handmade silhouettes appeared on the catwalk. Caroline Fuchs, Maarten Spruyt and Kevin power made African influenced models walk across the catwalk, with carefully crafted pieces on their body. Nick Foss and Rene Vandebeld showed what can be made out of a suit. Male models showed their raw, but with detailed pieces, ‘deconstruction of tailoring.’ Strong looks! After men’s wear, Jet Vervest showed authentic styling with unexpected combinations. In ‘our world’ we can buy ‘combinations’, but what happens when you have to do with little? Make some interesting outfits! After this show Sirianne and Annelie gave us ‘One Folk’.  A fairytale about a family and a horse! I really thought some nymphs appeared on the catwalk, this Folk looked so sweet, with a little girl in front. With a swift pace we entered the world of designers Jos van Heel, Netty Nauta, Annet Schullink en Marie-Louise Toerenel. Baggy jeans, greasy hair and T-shirts with the African flag. Tough models and well balanced apparel.

So far the designers. One model impressed me the most. She walked across the catwalk with a package on her head. Her belly was a see-through plastic bowl (like a fish bowl) with an orange baby in it. Capable of holding on to the package, she slowly passed by. A great moment.

Then the finally. Not just all the models walking together across the catwalk one more time, no! A real African music and dance group appeared! The energy, the love, the thrill of the djembe sound…What striked me the most was their smile. The dancers accompanied the band and their energy rose sky-high! The entire room was participating again – clapping and waving!

What a great way to end a great show. Like Baba Sylla already mentioned in his speech: All love and care for all the contributors to Orange Babies! What a wonderful foundation, a well deserved tribute! Let’s make this together A Tribute to Life!

It’s impossible to show all the pictures I’ve made, but here’s an impression of the tribute:

 

Donate clothes for Orange Babies! At entrance of AIFW.

 

Reading Sanoma Magazines before doors open for A Tribute to Orange Babies.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Editor: Jenke van den Bos

Rockin´ Replay!

 

Replay models before the show

After a welcome by a beautiful Moët & Chandon girl the crowed waited for the show to kick-off, I held onto my camera firmly. When the music with a heave bass drum started, it felt the heartbeat of Replay began. Replay is designed for cosmopolite people who´re on the move, and they really translated this concept to the show.  The models walked strong and firmly across the catwalk. Surprisingly the well-known television presenter Renate Verbaan started the show. She looked amazing in the new cuts of denim, showing the boyfriend fit jeans in a perfect silhouette.

 

The super-bleached jeans were given a edged look , with the application of  a lot of studs. This Replay collection showed eye for detail.  The male models strolled down the runway easily, holding big bowling bags. The combination of a lot of bronzed skin and traditional dark blue denim couldn’t be better.

 

I really loved the bohemian look of the girls. Their long hairs waived when they passed by, but with their destroyed jeans and sexy leather jackets tipped off with high heels, the typical Replay look simply said: I’m here to stay!

 

After the show, I experienced Replay through another sense organ. I watched the show with my eyes, but smelled the new Replay fragrance with my nose! Two models awaited by the entrance to give everyone who passed buy a smell of Replay! They used a new technique to give the fragrance a new dimension. It works as follows: You spray some water on you.  This dries. When you touch water again, the fragrance comes back!

 

All in all, my Replay experience couldn’t be more outspoken. I definetly felt the urban vibe and the positive message Replay brought across. What a great show. Rockin’ Replay!

 The Moët & Chandon girl with Fortis graphic in the back.

Editor: Jenke van den Bos

I do still have butterflies...

First some facts and figures about this amazingly talented 34-year-old couturier. You've probably read some interesting news about Hyun Yeu, he won this year's Frans Molenaar award! Therefore, curiously I seated myself at the salon to watch his new men's wear collection 'I still have butterflies'. This collection launched under his label ADO LES SCENTS. So, I was wondering; could this collection indeed give me butterflies?

The models appeared and walked slowly, though strong across the catwalk. I felt some tickels in my tummy already. The beautifully crafted pieces fitted the models perfectly. The use of many different fabrics made the collection versatile. You could see the well-considered use of geometrical patterns and details. Like this jacket. When the model passed by, I could almost feel the breeze of the 'butterfly wings' which were added to the jacket. Again, more tickels...

 

Another fragile item of the collection can be seen below. Well crafted, detailed fabrics:

 

Just as the women's collection Hyun Yeu uses transparant materials to tell the story of the show. The chosen fabrics illustrate the lightness of love - and again the tickels in my tummy. For me, the fresh colors and inspiring, refined collection do really give me butterflies!

 

Hyun Yeu:

Editor: Jenke van den Bos

En Garde!

Born in 2005, the cutting edge men´s label OntFront contributed the Fashion world with a fresh concept.  Today the label showed their fourth collection ‘Tonight is the Knight.’ Ready to watch their first show, do I want the OntFront Knights to safe and protect me?

Flashing lights and thundering sounds made us feel like we were taken back to the Medieval centuries. A black, big horse – pushed forward by a tough, bronzed knight – appeared on the catwalk. Carried on the horse, Dewi sang a powerful strong battle song.

 

The models walked on the catwalk as if they were defending their country – OntFront!  Different fabrics appeared in one piece of clothing. Brave men with red shimmering eyes, which gave us the impression of war. The designers used a stylish coloring-scheme off natural colors, like different shades of beige. Trench coats and pantaloons mixed with vests and trainers.  A look with a perfectly created balance between raw apparel and sophisticated men’s wear.

 

 

 

The collection makes traditional men suites more rebellious and more wearable. With eye for detail, pieces of a check play appeared in the clothing. After seeing this show, one thing’s for sure –

check mate by OntFront!

 

 

OntFront is sold already in Amsterdam! Check out the website of Nuzyn for more information.

Bagua Jody says :

' I love OntFront and Hyun Yeu!!! Love Jody'

 

(pic: Amanda (Nuzyn) and Bagua Jody)

Editor: Jenke van den Bos

EnDless Love

Fashion label EnD is yet another female design duo; Eva van Overbeeke and Delia Drel haven’t either reached the 30-year milestone but are already presenting their sixth collection.

Last season I referenced their designs to a beautifully repackaged version of my relatives in the 80’s, big hair and shoulder pads included. This season, the shoulder pads and slightly crazy hair prevailed but became part of a completely new vibe: which I can only explain as ‘the woods’.

Forest-derived tones of green, sky blue and orange were sewn into patchwork cover-ups, body-con dresses and (my favourite) wood-print leggings. The brand’s trademark ‘fan-like’ ruche-ing and exceptional prints were evident in nearly all of the designs. The print this time round resembled less of the psychedelic 70’s and more of something comparable to a vine-covered fence.

Is it the summer of love in a natural setting? I don’t know, but I like it!

WRITTEN BY HOLLY SYRETT
PHOTOGRAPHY CHELSEA SYRETT

Ceci n'est pas un post-it

Claes Iversen’s SS10 collection - Cece n'est pas un post-it - was one of the most anticipated shows at AIFW.

Hand in hand with anticipation came extremely high expectations, which could only be met in one manner: to be surpassed!

Thankfully, 34-year-old Claes’s extreme talent and conceptual consistency sent another breathtaking mix of couture and prêt-a-porter down the runway.

Claes: “My aspirations as of now are, to be able to produce my collection, have it sold in suitable shops and worn by strong women with their own visions of fashion.”

‘Ceci n’est pas un post-it’ has a lighter feel than his previous collection ‘Control’. Whereas a similar topic is raised, – the surrealistic antipoles of business and creativity – it seems that Claes is more at ease with his varying duties as a designer.

The contrasting collection of ‘suits’ and classically inspired ‘gowns’ is feminine, strong and somehow a contradictory ‘whole’. The lightness is continued in his colour palette with the mixture of black, cobalt, ‘post-it-yellow’, faded pink and greys.

   

WRITTEN BY HOLLY SYRETT
PHOTOGRAPHY CHELSEA SYRETT

LEW

Kim Leemans and Merel Wicker form the two-woman design team LEW (Leemans and Wicker).

Their participation with Red Light Fashion incidentally lead them to the inspiration of their most recent collection ‘Lady LEW & Blue Boy’.

Merel: “We have used the damp and mouldy walls of our studio, which is former gay-bar, ‘Blue Boy, Why Not’ as the muse for one of our prints.”

Lady LEW & Blue Boy can be seen as a new beginning for LEW. Where their first collections were more conceptual, they are now focussing on more wearable designs.

Merel: “It is very important that our clothing gets into more retail outlets. We aim to retain our twist, a touch of humour, strong concept and technical progression while creating a collection that women really want to wear. As a brand we never stand still, we always want to keep on moving.”

Desirable it definitely is. A peachy palette of salmons, tangerines and mustards was accentuated with bright blue (Blue Boy) and marbled greys (mouldy walls). The eighties silhouette was topped off with matching nerd glasses and kitsch jewellery.

Who knew mould could look this good?

WRITTEN BY HOLLY SYRETT
PHOTOGRAPHY CHELSEA SYRETT

Monique Collignon

Monique Collignon’s second prêt-a-porter collection consists of three themes: Navy Affair, Bohemian Rhapsody and City Vibes.

Monique: “I have chosen for three different themes in one collection because we’re not just one person; I look totally different now, than when I’m for instance at my stable or when I’m on holiday.”

Better known for her couture work, Monique easily translates her sexy-chique signature into prêt-a-porter.

Monique: “It’s completely different to design a prêt-a-porter line, yet there is obviously a comparable style and vision in all of my work. The nice thing about prêt-a-porter and such a diverse collection, is that it becomes available to all different kinds of women; young girls and slightly older girls.”

Navy Affair contains all you could expect from a maritime theme: cropped trousers, anchor accessories, sailor’s caps and neck-scarves. Bohemian Rhapsody is a subtle transition from Boho to the boulevard and City Vibes, with its monotone palette and sophisticated tailoring, is perfect for the female city slicker.

Visit www.moniquecollignon.com for more information.

 

WRITTEN BY HOLLY SYRETT
PHOTOGRAPHY CHELSEA SYRETT

Dress of the day @ CENTRE NEUF

By claesenpool - Because of magor constructionwork at warehouse Maison de Bonneterie, the dress of the day had to find a new location in Amsterdam. The initiative of the dutch newspaper de parool found a save home in CENTRE NEUF located in the Utrechtsestraat. An unique shoppinglocation were you can see the various creations of the designers from closeby. The jurk van de dag as it's called in dutch, can be seen in the CENTRE NEUF shoppingwindow up till halfway next week.Go and take a visit, don't forget to pick up your free issue of the AIFW paper en de parool.

Your reporters - claesenpool

Supertrash

By claesenpool - Supertrash showed their Spring/summer 10 collection in a packed catwalk venue. Right from the beginning of the show the mirror logo ensured a glitter and glamour evening. No one less then Janice Dickinson entered the room with her entourage to watch the show from frontrow. The mood was set, the show could start. Runner-up from the first cycle of Hollands next topmodel, Sulvia Geersen opened the show. Supertrash showed a super-femine, super-sexy, elegant, wearable collection. Guests next to us in the row were already picking out total sets for themselfs. Halfway the show a saxofonist entered the catwalk to give the show and the music an unexpected twist.In the end, owner of supertrash Olcay Gulsen took her overwelwing aplause as she entered the catwalk. Super models, super music, super entourage. Supertrash truely gave a super show.

Janice Dickinson

Sylvia Geersen

 

Olcay Gulsen

Your reporters, claesenpool

 

 

The Undaunted And Beyond

Jolanda van den Broek and Brigitte Hendrix both graduated from the Gerrit Rietveld academy in 2005. Since that moment, they have stunned audiences with their remarkably graphical print design and silhouettes for their brand And Beyond.

Their newest collection The Undaunted was no different. Inspired by French Revolutionary, Marianne and the symbolism of the flag, the collection is an illusion of fire, flames and exceptional imagery.

Not to be interpreted as just a ‘clothing brand’, And Beyond has collaborated with photographers and visual artists Barrie Hullegie and Sabrina Banglovanni since the launch of their brand. An astonishing installation of triptychs with dramatic imagery, video’s suggesting burning flags and mannequins with their feet buried in charcoal were the result of this collaboration.

Jolanda: “We showed our work at Arnhem Mode Biennale and to avoid repeating ourselves opted for such a presentation. The abstract images created by Barrie and Sabrina are a real addition to our collection, and although we share a similar vision, are completely independent works of art.”

Sabrina: “Times are difficult for image-makers, there is such an aspect of ‘perishability’ that goes hand-in-hand with dullness. To present our work in such a manner allows onlookers the time to draw their own conclusions and let the images sink-in; I believe this is also of great value to And Beyond’s designs."

The Undaunted will be presented at Pop-Up Café Meneer de Wit until this Sunday, don’t miss it!

pic: Jolanda, Brigitte, Barrie & Sabrina

WRITTEN BY HOLLY SYRETT
PHOTOGRAPHY VINCENT KOS

Gilmenta Jeansa (Frozen Jeans) by Denim Demon

The ‘lost’ Sami people of Northern Scandinavia are not the first that I would associate with a trendy denim brand. However, having spent just a few minutes in Dutch denim boutique Tenue de Nimes, - who are exhibiting Denim Demon’s  new collection - ‘trendy denim brand’ turned out to be an assumption I had made too early...

And my previous unawareness of the Sami people (approx. 70.000 people who inhabit the Northern parts of Sweden, Norway, Finland and Russia and who belong to the last indigenous ethnic groups of Europe) might just have to be put to my own ignorance.

Denim Demon is a friends and family run business, that has delved into its own heritage on the search of new jean washes, and that has came out with an inspiring and moving story.

Launched in 2008 by brothers Oskar and Anton Olssen, Denim Demon is taking over the world in a fast pace and is now retailed in Sweden, Norway, Finland, Holland, Germany, Belgium, Russia, The UK, USA and Japan. Not that this is noticeable when talking to Anton Olssen, who is a laidback guy, passionate about his story and obviously passionate about his friends.

Anton (pic top): “We want to having something that we can tell with our jeans, the collection ‘Gilmenta Jeansa’ (frozen jeans) has resulted in real stories from real people, stories that can be experienced by the wearers.”

Photographer Sebastian Skarp (also friend of the Denim Demon brothers) spent time with 7 Sami people who were each given a pair of DD jeans with the strict instructions to wear them day-in, day-out for six months. The result: a beautiful photography exhibition, which portrays a lifestyle so far from our own that it’s no surprise that Father Christmas comes from Lapland, and for the Denim Demon brothers, a series of jeans with a real story.

Visit Tenue de Nimes on Elandsgracht 60 or Modefabriek to see, hear and feel the stories of the 7 Sami men who wore Denim Demon jeans for six months.

WRITTEN BY HOLLY SYRETT
PHOTOGRAPHY VINCENT KOS

Madé

Brazilian born and Dutch raised Miriam Flores successfully launched her brand Madé in 2005, yet has always cherished the idea of showing at AIFW.

To be able to celebrate her first (stunning) show on the same day as her birthday was an added bonus. Congratulations Miriam!

Miriam’s heritage is recognisable in her collection that resembles the laidback attitude of Ipanema, where Miriam yearly spends time chilling out.

Miriam: “This is my first show at AIFW, I had to make a selection out of my original collection that consists out of 120 garments, and have chosen for the garments that are most representative of myself, with this show I want to really introduce Madé to the Dutch public, this is me, this is who I am!”

If beautiful, elegant, comfortable, ‘warm’ and wearable are words Miriam would like to identify herself with, then I think she’s got it right.

Madé’s colourful collection of swimwear, jumpsuits, dresses and accessories can gladly samba themselves into my wardrobe any day.

(pic: Miriam Flores)

WRITTEN BY HOLLY SYRETT
PHOTOGRAPHY VINCENT KOS

Frans Molenaar Award 2009

(pic top: model from Frans Molenaar Award nominee Jimmy Paul's collection)

The Frans Molenaar Award is an award for the most promising couturier in The Netherlands. Presented by prestigious Dutch designer Frans Molenaar himself, the award comes with more than the honour of receiving it, it also represents a 10.000-euro cheque to facilitate the road between education and profession.

Last year’s winner Danny Cremers took his 10.000 euro’s to London and is now successfully fulfilling his second year at Central Saint Martins college. He opened the show with his most recent collection that confirmed his earlier triumph and was well received by the crowd.

This year’s winner 34-year-old Hyun Yeu cannot only be congratulated on being the most promising couturier in The Netherlands, he is also presenting his first men’s collection ‘I still have butterflies’ this Sunday at AIFW.

Talk about talent!

His women’s couture collection ‘Double vision and illusions’ (see pic below) was inspired by a story that he wrote himself.

Hyun: “It’s a story about a girl who thinks she is a plant, it turns out that she is suffering from schizophrenia. Her story is shown in the collection through the mirrored designs, strong colours that illustrate her mood swings and transparent materials.”

 

WRITTEN BY HOLLY SYRETT
PHOTOGRAPHY VINCENT KOS